Current Issue - Spring/Summer 2013
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Codling Moth damage to apple fruit.
Officially, they’re the larvae of the rarely seen Codling Moth. To most people, they’re simply the worm in the apple. And for the record, they’re one of the most damaging insects to apples and pears, and also affect crab apple and hawthorn.
Now, a new method of control from Europe helps control Codling Moth larvae without the drenching pesticide spray which so many people don’t want on their edible fruit. It is a special paste containing a minute amount of an insecticide and a unique insect pheromone that only attracts the male Codling Moth. On making contact with the paste, the male moth is immobilized and dies shortly thereafter leaving only unfertilized females, which are unable to lay viable eggs on the fruit or tree leaves thus preventing the “worm in the apple”.
And here’s the best part! Only one or two droplets are applied to the upper branches of each apple tree. Compared to conventional pesticide sprays, this method delivers a minute amount of product, and it remains effective for four to six weeks. Generally two applications are required during the summer growing season.
This new method also has environmental benefits over traditional spray methods. With spray applications, the pesticide drenches the entire tree and fruit, but with the new method no product gets on the fruit and only several drops is used on the entire tree. We have tested this method the last several years and found it to be effective and environmentally friendly.
The first Codling Moth larvae should be hatching soon into the gray colored moth. Call us today about this exciting new treatment to eliminate the worm in the apple.
Last year’s 650-mile Tour des Trees week-long bicycle tour in British Columbia and northern Washington was a great ride for my 15-year-old son Brandon and me. We raised $6,000 for tree research and to promote the importance of urban and community trees and their proper care.Terrill Collier (on right) and son, Brandon, riding in the 2002 Tour des Trees to raise money for tree research.
This year’s ride July 23-August 3 is a loop from Ottawa, Canada through New York’s Adirondack Mountains, passing through Vermont and finishing in Montreal. This year 14-year-old son Logan will also be part of the Collier team riding to raise research money.
Thanks to everyone who sponsored us last year. Each rider must raise $3,000 for the Tree Research and Education Endowment (TREE) Fund, so we’re asking the Collier Arbor Care family to sponsor us with a tax deductible sponsorship once again.
If you can help, call us at 503-722-7267.
The best time to prune many shrubs and hedges is after the spring flush of growth in late spring or early summer. Of course, different species of shrubs may have slightly different pruning requirements. Other considerations are: when does the plant bloom, is the plant too big, too dense, too ugly, too loose or unruly? You need to prune to accomplish your objectives and not destroy the beauty and natural growth habit of the plant.
There are two types of pruning cuts you need to know about to prune your plants: thinning cuts and heading cuts.
A heading (or shearing) cut is basically cutting off the tip or end of a branch, twig or stem. This causes multiple shoots of new growth to occur below the cuts. Heading cuts create dense bushy shrubs or hedges. Shearing, topping or pinching are examples of a heading cut. This type of pruning is good for hedges, topiary, and for plants that look like pom-poms or round balls. Heading cuts are not good for most shrubs and trees. However, many shrubs are maintained by shearing because it is a quick (hence cheap) way of pruning.
A thinning cut removes a branch back to another branch or twig. Most quality pruning consists of thinning cuts. It promotes new growth in existing branches and spreads that new growth more evenly throughout the plant. Thinning cuts allow for more sunlight to penetrate the interior, helps to reduce the size of the plant. A properly thinned plant looks more natural and will stay pruned longer.
Many of the larger shrubs may just need to have the dead wood taken out. Also remove any crossing or rubbing branches. You can also prune out branches that are hanging close to or on the ground. Take out sucker shoots that grow straight up from the base and interior of the plant. Don’t try and fix things all at once. Shrubs should not have more than 20 to 25 % of their foliage and branches removed at any one time. Pruning is a process that may take several years. Do some now then come back over successive years to fine tune. If a plant is truly too big for it’s spot, you may want to go ahead and remove it. But try real selective pruning first.
Rhododendrons, azaleas and andromeda are best pruned after blossoming in early summer. These types of larger leaved plants are best thinned out, so please don’t shear. Only shear plants that you want to grow thick like a hedge for screening purposes. Plants that make good hedges by shearing include: arborvitae, laurel, photinia, privet and yew to name a few.
Is your pruning job just too big to tackle? Do you simply not have the time or desire to prune? Is the hedge too tall and wide for you to trim? Do you tremble with fear at the thought of your spouse using power equipment? Call the professionals at Collier Arbor Care. Our certified Arborists will efficiently tackle your job and turn those out-of-control plants into living works of art.
The Plume Cryptomeria is known in botanical circles as Cryptomeria japonica “Elegans”. This handsome evergreen variety grows to 15-30 foot tall and is a perfect smaller conifer for residential landscapes. Feature it as a specimen tree or use it to line paths and driveways. Its feathery, soft textured foliage begs to be touched. The fluffy new growth is green turning to a rich coppery red color in winter for year-round interest. The Cyrptomeria is easy to grow preferring rich acid soils (like we have in the Northwest), and an open sunny location. This is a dense pyramidal growing tree with a stout trunk and reddish cedar-like bark. It has a very graceful full growth habit. For an Oriental effect, prune out some branches to give a tiered look or leave it full.
The Cryptomeria is also available in other cultivars such as the yellow-foliaged variety “Sekkan-sugi”. To have the Plume Cryptomeria or other fine specimen trees planted in your garden, call us today for ideas and an estimate to add or replace a tree in your landscape.
• Paperbark Maple
(Acer griseum — 20-30’ tall) Exfoliating orange bark for winter interest. Leaves are divided into 3 leaflets, green with silvery underside, bright red fall color, Full sun or shade, slow growing specimen tree.
• Crabapples Golden Raindrops & Prairie Fire
(Malus sp. — 15-20’ ) Golden raindrops: green cut-leaf foliage, white spring flowers, small golden berries. Disease resistant. Prairie Fire: Hot pink spring flowers, small red berries, maroon foliage, disease resistant.
• Plume Cryptomeria
(Cryptomeria japonica ‘Elegans’ — 20-40’) Evergreen tree with feathery, soft bluish green foliage turns copper colored in winter. Grow in full sun.
• Katsura Tree
(Cercidiphyllum japonicum — 40-60’) Multi-stemmed tree for sun or partial shade. Heart shaped foliage. New growth is red fading to green then yellow fall color. Few pest problems.
• Korean Dogwood
(Cornus kousa — 15-25’) Anthracnose resistant, white showy flowers in May followed by raspberry like fruit. Yellow or scarlet fall color.
• Sweet Bay Magnolia
(Magnolia viginiana — 15-25’) Creamy large flowers, very fragrant, grows in sun, wet soils. Lustrous green deciduous foliage.
(Oxydendrum arboreum — 30-40’) Spectacular orange fall color, bell shaped white flowers in spring. Grows in full sun, well-drained moist soils.
• Persian Parrotia
(Parrotia persica — 15-30’) Exfoliating gray bark, showy tiny crimson flowers in early spring. Choice tree, orange fall color. Grows in full sun.
• Japanese Stewartia
(Stewartia psuedocamellia — 30-40’) White camellia-like flowers in summer, wonderful orange exfoliating bark. Orange fall color. Grow in sun or partial shade, well-drained soil.
• Japanese Snowbell
(Styrax japonicus — 20-30’) Showy white, pendulous flowers in late spring. Horizontal branching, non-aggressive roots, pest free. Grow in sun or partial shade.
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